目 錄

上篇 創(chuàng)意設(shè)計(jì)與表達(dá)

模塊一“動(dòng)手”即是“設(shè)計(jì)”的創(chuàng)作理念.........................................................................................1

認(rèn)識(shí)一 以人為主體的空間設(shè)計(jì)——確立人與衣的結(jié)構(gòu)關(guān)系.....................................................2

認(rèn)識(shí)二 立裁的基礎(chǔ)技法.......................................................................................................................4

認(rèn)識(shí)三 創(chuàng)意立裁初體驗(yàn)——基本造型手法......................................................................................7

認(rèn)識(shí)四 強(qiáng)化創(chuàng)意的造型焦點(diǎn)——設(shè)計(jì)靈感的提煉與表達(dá)............................................................14

認(rèn)識(shí)五 感性而嚴(yán)謹(jǐn)?shù)牧⒉眠^(guò)程——養(yǎng)成良好的設(shè)計(jì)習(xí)慣............................................................20

模塊二合體類造型的立裁設(shè)計(jì)與款式拓展訓(xùn)練............................................................................27

訓(xùn)練一 褶省設(shè)計(jì)..................................................................................................................................28

一、設(shè)計(jì)靈感與構(gòu)思.........................................................................................................................28

二、設(shè)計(jì)圖解析.................................................................................................................................28

三、立裁設(shè)計(jì)過(guò)程.............................................................................................................................31

四、系列款的拓展設(shè)計(jì)與立體造型表現(xiàn)........................................................................................34

五、總結(jié)與分析...........................................................................................................................42

訓(xùn)練二 分割設(shè)計(jì)..................................................................................................................................45

一、設(shè)計(jì)靈感與構(gòu)思.........................................................................................................................45

二、設(shè)計(jì)圖解析.................................................................................................................................46

三、立裁設(shè)計(jì)過(guò)程.............................................................................................................................47

四、系列款的拓展設(shè)計(jì)與立體造型表現(xiàn)........................................................................................51

五、總結(jié)與分析.................................................................................................................................59

訓(xùn)練三 不對(duì)稱結(jié)構(gòu)與局部抽褶設(shè)計(jì).................................................................................................62

一、設(shè)計(jì)靈感與構(gòu)思.........................................................................................................................62

二、設(shè)計(jì)圖解析.................................................................................................................................64

三、立裁設(shè)計(jì)過(guò)程.............................................................................................................................64

四、系列款的拓展設(shè)計(jì)與立體造型表現(xiàn)........................................................................................69

五、總結(jié)與分析.................................................................................................................................72

訓(xùn)練四 線的變化..................................................................................................................................74

一、設(shè)計(jì)靈感與構(gòu)思.........................................................................................................................74

二、設(shè)計(jì)圖解析.................................................................................................................................74

三、立裁設(shè)計(jì)過(guò)程.............................................................................................................................76

四、系列款的拓展設(shè)計(jì)與立體造型表現(xiàn)........................................................................................81

五、總結(jié)與分析.................................................................................................................................92

訓(xùn)練五 局部創(chuàng)意設(shè)計(jì)..........................................................................................................................94

一、設(shè)計(jì)靈感與構(gòu)思.........................................................................................................................94

二、設(shè)計(jì)圖解析.................................................................................................................................96

三、立裁設(shè)計(jì)過(guò)程.............................................................................................................................96

四、系列款的拓展設(shè)計(jì)與立體造型表現(xiàn)......................................................................................100

五、總結(jié)與分析...............................................................................................................................114

訓(xùn)練六 局部焦點(diǎn)造型.......................................................................................................................117

一、設(shè)計(jì)靈感與構(gòu)思.......................................................................................................................117

二、設(shè)計(jì)圖解析...............................................................................................................................118

三、立裁設(shè)計(jì)過(guò)程...........................................................................................................................119

四、系列款的拓展設(shè)計(jì)與立體造型表現(xiàn)......................................................................................125

五、總結(jié)與分析...............................................................................................................................136

訓(xùn)練七 折疊聚焦................................................................................................................................138

一、設(shè)計(jì)靈感與構(gòu)思.......................................................................................................................138

二、設(shè)計(jì)圖解析...............................................................................................................................138

三、立裁設(shè)計(jì)過(guò)程...........................................................................................................................140

四、系列款的拓展設(shè)計(jì)與立體造型表現(xiàn)......................................................................................146

五、總結(jié)與分析...............................................................................................................................152

模塊三寬松類造型的立裁設(shè)計(jì)與款式拓展訓(xùn)練..........................................................................155

訓(xùn)練一幾何構(gòu)成................................................................................................................................156

一、設(shè)計(jì)靈感與構(gòu)思.......................................................................................................................156

二、設(shè)計(jì)圖解析...............................................................................................................................156

三、立裁設(shè)計(jì)過(guò)程...........................................................................................................................158

四、系列款的拓展設(shè)計(jì)與立體造型表現(xiàn)......................................................................................162

五、總結(jié)與分析...............................................................................................................................169

訓(xùn)練二局部斜裁................................................................................................................................172

一、設(shè)計(jì)靈感與構(gòu)思.......................................................................................................................172

二、設(shè)計(jì)圖解析...............................................................................................................................174

三、立裁設(shè)計(jì)過(guò)程...........................................................................................................................174

四、系列款的拓展設(shè)計(jì)與立體造型表現(xiàn)......................................................................................178

五、總結(jié)與分析...............................................................................................................................181

訓(xùn)練三直線裁剪一片成型...............................................................................................................183

一、設(shè)計(jì)靈感與構(gòu)思.......................................................................................................................183

二、設(shè)計(jì)圖解析...............................................................................................................................183

三、立裁設(shè)計(jì)過(guò)程...........................................................................................................................183

四、系列款的拓展設(shè)計(jì)與立體造型表現(xiàn)......................................................................................189

五、總結(jié)與分析...............................................................................................................................200

參考文獻(xiàn)................................................................................................................................................202