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冰湖騰魚:查干湖最后的魚獵部落(漢英)
《冰湖騰魚》為中國冰雪文化遺產(chǎn)經(jīng)典讀本。自然地理攝影師邊緣2006年10月在中國吉林省拍鳥途中意外獲知查干湖采用蒙古族古老的冬季捕魚方式。十年期間用相機記錄冰天雪里地里故事。畫冊以圖文畫冊的形式,記錄了中國蒙古族冬季捕魚的勞作方式和漁獵文化,圖片按照捕魚的流程進行編輯排列,描述蒙古族漁獵的文化背景以及民間習俗。邊緣著,撰文曹保明,攝影邊緣,本畫冊獲《美國國家地理》授權(quán),由五洲傳播出版社出版。
作者邊緣,從事新聞編采20多年,歷任報紙總編輯部編輯記者,航空雜志總編輯。中國攝影家協(xié)會會員、美國攝影家學會會員、英國皇家攝影學會會員。先后榮獲中國攝影藝術(shù)金像獎、中國國家林業(yè)局森林文化獎、WWF世界自然基金會自然獎。作為行走世界的中國著名自然地理攝影師,對圖片和文章有著獨到的見解。近年來編輯出版自然地理、歷史、人文書籍旨在利用媒體傳播博大精深的人文歷史、倡導(dǎo)保護地球和自然。
本畫冊獲《美國國家地理》授權(quán),中國冰雪文化遺產(chǎn)經(jīng)典讀本
永遠的查干湖
The Eternal Chagan Lake 寫在《冰湖騰魚》前邊的話 An Introduction to Fishing on the Ice 撰文 / 高材林 By / Gao Cailin 在人類的生活中,其實我們每一個人每一天都在尋找,尋找一個越來越感覺 到能吸引你、能留住你的地方,這個地方往往是人真實生活的地方,但又超 越了現(xiàn)實本身。這里往往是生活本身留住了一些生動的東西,或者是山,或 者是水;或者是村落,或者是人家;哪怕僅僅是一座老院落,一座老房子, 一棵老樹,那是一些忍不住讓人去思考的東西,這里才是作為有生命的人去 苦苦尋覓的地方。 In human life, each and every one of us is in search of something, looking for a place that increasingly draws us in and keeps us from leaving. It is often a place where people lead real lives, and yet which transcends reality. It is here that life itself retains something vivid, perhaps mountains and waters, villages and people, or even something as simple as an old courtyard, an old house, an old tree. These are the things that make you think, and such are the places that people who are truly alive strive to find. 英國著名文化人類學家查理斯?多爾森(Charles Dorsen)認為,社會不能 不發(fā)展,自然不能不變化,而在所有的發(fā)展與變化中,那些“留住了傳統(tǒng)” 并在進程中能使傳統(tǒng)與自然和社會“很好銜接”的地方就是人類進步的典范。 以世界文化學家的理論和結(jié)論去權(quán)衡,中國吉林省的查干湖冬季漁獵就具有 這樣的性質(zhì)和身份。在這里,它具備了人類所有自然文化與傳統(tǒng)文化很好融 合的條件和能力,它完成了這些實踐,并很好地保留了傳統(tǒng)留給人類的成果。 Charles Dorsen, the renowned British cultural anthropologist, argues that society cannot but develop and nature cannot but change. However, amidst all the developments and changes, those places that “retain traditions” and, in the course of progress, are able to link nature and traditions with society, serve as paradigms of human progress. Gauged by this standard, the winter fishing at Chagan Lake in Jilin Province of China can be seen as such a place. It has all the conditions and abilities for the ideal integration of natural culture and traditional culture, and has well preserved the fruits of human traditions. 人類的傳統(tǒng),是指人類在生存的語言、行為和心理上的一種綜合體現(xiàn),這種 體現(xiàn)必須是這個地方具有自己久遠的歷史、清晰的傳承、活態(tài)的存在和鮮明 的地域特色,查干湖冬捕漁獵就是這樣一個典型。在這里,這塊土地上的久 遠歷史都很好地保留在了它的漁獵生活之中,它沒有從歷史和自然中把自己 剝離出去,而是主動地靠近自然、保護自然,讓自己成為自然中的存在,這 在當今社會普遍講發(fā)展而又不知如何遞進的進程中非常重要,它以自己的實 踐留住了自然,也留住了自己。與別的地域截然不同的是,查干湖的漁獵留 住了屬于它自己的完整的漁獵傳統(tǒng)。在這里,我們會清晰地看到久遠的文化 基因的過渡層次,以人為代表的傳承,在人的血緣關(guān)系和社會以及職業(yè)關(guān)系上, 都清清楚楚地體現(xiàn)著,甚至,我們可以傾聽到、看得到、觸摸到、感受到這 種文化,也可以與之對話,并參與到傳承的因素中去。我們真真切切地呼吸 到這塊土地上的清新美妙的傳統(tǒng)生存氣息。在這里,近百歲的漁獵文化傳承 者攜著他的諸多 80 歲、70 歲、60 歲、50 歲、40 歲以至更年輕的傳承者, 都留在這塊土地上。這里保留了一種傳統(tǒng)文化的前所未有的完整性和清晰性。 走進查干湖,你會發(fā)覺自己走進了優(yōu)秀傳統(tǒng)文化的縝密結(jié)構(gòu)之中,這種結(jié)構(gòu) 是永遠不會失掉的。 Human tradition refers to the comprehensive embodiment of human beings’ language, behavior and psychology for survival. This embodiment requires that a place have a long history of its own, clear inheritance, active existence and distinctive regional characteristics. The winter fishing on Chagan Lake is such an example. Here, the long history of the land is well preserved in its fishing life. It has not torn itself away from history and nature; instead, it has taken the initiative to come close to nature and protect nature, and let itself be an existence in nature, which is all too important in today’s society, where talk of development is everywhere, with little knowledge of how to manage the process. The people of Chagan Lake have preserved the place and surrounding nature by doing what they do. What makes the place utterly different from other regions is that it has preserved its fishing tradition in its entirety. Here, we can clearly see how the cultural DNA has been passed down through the ages and gone through transitions. The heritage is clearly embodied in blood relations as well as social and occupational relations. What is more, we can even hear, see, touch and feel the culture. We can enter a dialogue with it and become part of the legacy. We breathe the refreshing air of a traditional culture that is well and alive. Here, the hundred-year-old preserver of the fishing culture guides and teaches inheritors who are eighty, seventy, sixty, fifty, forty or even younger, while living together with them on this land--a land that has preserved a traditional culture with unprecedented integrity and clarity. Once you enter the world of Chagan Lake, you will find yourself within the finely meshed structure of a splendid traditional culture that will never be lost. 衡量所有優(yōu)秀文化的標準只有生活本身。在查干湖,我們可以明確地感受到 它與社會、與生活、與自然、與文化、與歷史的關(guān)系,特別是它與現(xiàn)實社會 的關(guān)系,人們在這里才實實在在地感受到查干湖漁獵生活已與今天的社會生 活多么的不可分割,那已形成了一種生活鏈,它是活著的傳統(tǒng),它是活態(tài)的 文化基地,它是現(xiàn)實人們所需要的一種生動的生存方式。同時,人們又清楚 地感受到,這里具有屬于自己的鮮明的地域特色,這是使它一躍而成為人類 文化遺產(chǎn)的重要條件和身份。在生活中,其實任何一塊土地、一個地域,都 有自己的鮮明特色,但是在認同這個特色、保護這個特色、挖掘這個特色、 傳承這個特色上,別的地方很難超越這里。 The standard for measuring all good cultures is life itself. At Chagan Lake, we can clearly feel its relationships with society, life, nature, culture and history, especially its relationship with the real world. Here, one truly feels that the Chagan Lake fishing life is inseparable from life in today's society, with which it has formed a chain of life. It is a living tradition; it is a living cultural base; it is a vivid way of life that people need. At the same time, one will also clearly feel that it has distinct regional characteristics of its own. They constitute the critical conditions and identity which have made the place a cultural heritage site of China. In fact, any piece of land, any region, has its own distinct characteristics. However, in terms of identifying with these characteristics, protecting them, exploring them and passing them down, no place has done better than Chagan Lake. 一個地方,它的真實能力不在于如何昭示、宣傳,它應(yīng)該做的恰恰是如何去 認識它自己。一個不能很好認識自己的地域,就沒有未來,很真實地認識自己、 思考自己,才能完善自己,才能根據(jù)自己的本土存在去認真地審視自己與人 類的自然、歷史與文化的關(guān)系,也才能找到自己。查干湖最大的成功是很好 地找到了自己,也就找到了他人。它立足于本土,也才找到了世界,進入到 人類文化的層次。 A place’s true value lies not in how it displays or promotes itself, but in how well it knows itself. No place that fails to understand itself has any future. Only by truly understanding itself and reflecting on itself can it improve itself, and, based on its existence on the land, further to examine itself in relation to nature, history and cultures, ultimately discovering its true self. Chagan Nur's greatest success lies in having found itself, which has allowed it to find others. Only by remaining rooted in its own land has it found the world, and become a shared human cultural heritage. 查干湖漁獵文化的所有存在,完完全全地得益于留住了自然的原始背景優(yōu)勢, 并在保護這個重要自然基因的進程中,一刻也未停止地保住更加重要的生存 傳統(tǒng),那就是作為三大人文要素的語言、行為和心理。這種保持和生存,使 得查干湖得天獨厚地占據(jù)了人類社會向文明發(fā)展過渡的前沿高度,它沒有讓 自己離開人類社會發(fā)展的文明前沿,因此它具備了沖向人類文化頂點高度的 能力和品質(zhì)。 The Chagan Lake fishing culture owes its existence entirely to having retained its natural environment, through the process of which the people tirelessly preserved the traditions linked to their survival, namely the three major cultural elements: language, behavior and psychology. This has allowed the culture of Chagan Lake to remain at the forefront of human society's development towards civilization, endowing it with the ability to reach the height of human culture. 若干年以來,人類社會處于匆忙的轉(zhuǎn)換期與轉(zhuǎn)型期,歐洲的工業(yè)革命發(fā)展到 工業(yè)文明的今天,恰恰與中國的工業(yè)化、城鎮(zhèn)化異曲同工。在中國社會與人 類文化發(fā)展的全球化背景之中,人們在苦苦地尋找失落的曾經(jīng)創(chuàng)造過人類思 想與文化輝煌的遺產(chǎn),可是,都不知不覺地被發(fā)展的理念輕易地忽視掉了。 查干湖的存在,一下子突顯出它的珍貴和重要了,很少有例子在當今可以說 明傳統(tǒng)在一個地域和一個民族中的價值意義,查干湖恰恰以自己的真實、樸 實、生動的身份和完整的傳統(tǒng)文化結(jié)構(gòu)向人類做出自己的答案,這里才是人 類理想的去處,是人類千百年來苦苦尋覓又接續(xù)要去構(gòu)建的地方,它的存在, 是全人類的一個奇跡。 For many years now, human society has been in a fast-paced period of transition and transformation. The progression from the industrial revolution to an industrialized civilization in Europe is mirrored by China's industrialization and urbanization. Against the cultural background of globalization and the social and human development in China, people are struggling to find what has been lost, the legacy that once created glorious human thoughts and cultures, which, nevertheless, has been unwittingly overlooked and replaced by newly-discovered ideas. Chagan Lake's existence highlights how precious and significant this legacy is. Today, no other place better exemplifies the importance of tradition to a region and a people than Chagan Lake, and it has done so with an identity that is authentic, down-to- earth and vivid and a traditional cultural structure that remains intact. It is the ideal place to be for humans, one that we have sought long and hard for and will continue to build. Its existence is a miracle for all mankind. 如今,全球都在變暖。人類渴望到達一個美妙的冰雪世界,冰雪鑄就的庭院 樓閣,處處雪樹冰花,仿佛這些只能在安徒生童話和普希金聽外婆講的傳說 中才有。其實,查干湖就是這樣的一個地方。在這里有白雪鋪就的原野,有 冰湖凝成的晶瑩的冰原,那些五彩繽紛的冰與雪的文化都是它自己的內(nèi)涵。 在這里,美麗夢幻的冰雪不再是一個單純的背景和空間,它有自己的述說, 那一串一串的故事、傳說以及傳說和故事中的人物,許許多多的冰雪記憶, 都可以活生生地與你對話,這里在親切地拉著你的手,讓你能夠融進故事和 傳說。夢幻其實已是生活本身。冰雪佳境,晶瑩剔透,冰走馬輪,霜結(jié)人臉, 魚騰冰湖,漢唐飛天,蒼狼踏冰,人畜與共,一處完整的自然與社會完美融合, 被人類很好保留和發(fā)展出來的生命生存佳境,奉獻給了人類文化遺產(chǎn)寶庫。 查干湖,其實是自己保住了自己,自己留住了自己。 Today, the world is getting warmer. Humans long for a wonderful world of ice and snow, where courtyards and pavilions made of ice and snow are everywhere, surrounded by snow trees and ice flowers. It might seem that all these can only exist in Andersen’s fairy tales and the legends that Pushkin's grandmother told him. In fact, Chagan Lake is just such a place. Here, there are snow-covered wilderness and ice sheets formed by crystalline ice lakes, which are given meaning by the colorful culture of ice and snow. Here, the dreamlike ice-scape is no longer a simple background and space. It has its own narratives. The string of stories, legends, and characters in the legends and stories, and all those memories hidden in the ice and snow, talk to you as if they are alive. This place holds your hand cordially so that you can immerse yourself in the stories and legends. In fact, here life itself is a dream. This wonderful land of ice and snow, of crystalline clearness, of horse- drawn wagons on ice, of frost-covered faces, of fish leaping out of the lake, of the Han and Tang flying Apsaras, of wolves crossing the ice, of men and beasts living side by side — all this shows a perfectly preserved harmony between nature and humans, contributing to the treasure trove of human cultural heritage. In so doing, Chagan Lake has preserved itself, all by itself. 高材林 2016 年 10 月 Gao Cailin October 2016
邊緣,自然地理攝影師;中國攝影家協(xié)會會員;美國攝影家學會會員;英國皇家攝影學會會員;榮獲中國國家林業(yè)局森林文化獎;榮獲WWF世界自然基金會自然獎;榮獲中國攝影藝術(shù)金像獎作品獎。
前 言
Preface 第一章 雪野傳奇 Legends of the Snow Field 第二章 心靈祈福 Spiritual Blessings 第三章 冰原遺產(chǎn) Ice Heritage 第四章 冰湖漁獵 Fishing on the Ice Lake 第五章 歲月傳承 Passing the Torch 第六章 魚舞盛世 A Flourishing Fishing Culture 后 記 Afterword
把頭還要會看“魚花”。魚花,又叫魚泡泡,是魚 喘息時吐出的氣。在冬天,魚喘出的氣會在冰中形 成一層一層的泡,這叫魚花,說明這兒冰底下有 魚。 而魚花又分“ 新花” 和“ 舊花”, 又叫“老 花”。新花,是魚剛吐的,或昨晚上吐的,特征 是這些“花”在冰水里還在晃動、晃蕩,說明有魚 群,把頭正好可以指揮人在此鑿冰下網(wǎng)。而舊花, 是指那些已凍結(jié)在冰層里的泡泡。這些“花”一動 也不動,說明魚群已經(jīng)過去了。不懂魚性的人才會 在舊花處鑿冰開眼。
The fishing master must also be able to read “fish flower”, also known as fish bubble, which is gas exhaled by fish that escapes as bubbles. In winter, the gas forms layers and layers of bubbles in the ice, i.e., fish flower, indicating the presence of fish underneath. Fish flowers are divided into “new flowers” and “old flowers”. The new flowers are fresh bubbles just made by the fish or the night before, and are still quivering and floating in the icy water, which indicates that the fish are still there. This is where the fishing master will have his team chisel the ice and cast the net. The old flowers are bubbles that are already frozen in the ice. These “flowers” do not move, indicating that the fish have already left. Only people who don’t understand fish behavior will make ice holes where the “old flowers” are. “花”還分多種,有一種花稱為“草花”,把頭會 一眼認出。草花,是水里的草吐出的氣泡。冬天草 一凍也會吐氣泡,稱為草花。草花的特征是一冒到 頂,形狀是一串一串的,被漁民稱為“串泡”。魚 花則是一層一層,一片一片的,有明顯的區(qū)別。這 些本事都是老漁把頭的看家本領(lǐng)。 The “flower” can be further divided into different categories. There is the “grass flower”, which the fishing master can recognize instantly. They are bubbles made by water grass, and their most distinctive feature is that the bubbles rise to the top in strings, and are called “string bubbles” by the fishermen. The fish flowers are recognizably different from grass flowers in that they form in layers and patches. Knowing all this is what makes the fishing master a fishing master. 在查干淖爾,冬季捕魚網(wǎng)上冰前,要先選出領(lǐng)網(wǎng)的, 領(lǐng)網(wǎng)的人往往被冬捕的人稱為二把頭。顧名思義,領(lǐng)網(wǎng),就是指帶領(lǐng)這伙人實際在冰上作業(yè)。當把頭 觀察完下網(wǎng)點,他還有諸多的事情要做,什么賣魚 呀,接待來客呀,都由把頭去做,于是冰上的活就 交給領(lǐng)網(wǎng)把頭領(lǐng)著去干。領(lǐng)網(wǎng)把頭要懂得捕魚各個 環(huán)節(jié)中的規(guī)俗和技術(shù),比如需要“穿草鞋”或“摘 掛子”時,領(lǐng)網(wǎng)的要及時發(fā)現(xiàn),并組織和指派“跟 網(wǎng)的”去處理。領(lǐng)網(wǎng)人,心眼要正,一碗水要端 平;該誰的活,就由誰去干,不能看人下菜碟。不 然時間長了,他在冰面上沒有威信,跟網(wǎng)的就會和 他有二心。 Before winter fishing begins in Chagan Nur, the fishermen also have to elect the net leader, who is known as the number two man after the fishing master. As the name suggests, the net leader refers to the person who leads the fishing crew in actual operations on the ice. After deciding on the net casting spots, the fishing master has many other tasks to attend to, such as selling the fish, receiving guests, etc., so command is handed over to the net leader. The net leader must have mastered the customs and techniques relating to various aspects of winter fishing. For instance, if the need arises to “put on grass shoes” or “disentangle the net”, the net leader must promptly identify the problem and assign the “net handlers” to deal with it. The net leader must be impartial in allocating work, assigning tasks to whoever should be responsible, showing no favoritism. Otherwise, over time he will lose his authority on the ice and the loyalty of the net handlers. 冬捕中“穿草鞋”,其實不是真草鞋,而是用谷草 或稻草擰成的草把。冬季冰下捕魚,是技術(shù)性很強 的一種漁獵活動,要把偌大的網(wǎng)在冰層下展開,而 送網(wǎng)要從事先鑿開的冰眼(冰洞)下網(wǎng),由于冰下 的泥地都不是一碼平地,有時就是草根、樹茬、稀 泥、高崗或大坑,不利于網(wǎng)的送運,就得“穿草 鞋”。穿草鞋又叫“拴草鞋”,是指在網(wǎng)進入到這 樣的地段時,在網(wǎng)邊底綁上一個個草把,使網(wǎng)在冰 層底下的塘泥上便于滑動。于是這穿草鞋就成了捕魚過程中的一道絕活。 In winter fishing, “putting on grass shoes” is not used in the literal sense. The grass shoe in fact refers to a bundle of straw. Winter ice fishing is highly technical, where a large net is spread under ice through ice holes chiseled in advance, and the terrain beneath the ice is not always flat and smooth. In some places the surface is covered with grassroots, tree stubbles, mud, hillocks or big pits that hinder the net’s movement. Such occasions call for “putting on grass shoes”. Also called “tying on grass shoes”, it means tying straw bundles under the net when it enters rough terrain to make it easier for the net to slide along the mud beneath the ice. This is another highly technical task in the process of winter fishing. 在網(wǎng)由冰眼下到冰底時,把頭在冰面上來回走動, 觀察網(wǎng)運送的速度,一旦發(fā)現(xiàn)網(wǎng)走得慢了,就知有 不順暢的地方了,于是就大喊:“穿草鞋!” 把頭的話,就等于命令一樣。這時,專門有一個叫 “打串連”的人,答應(yīng)一聲,立刻抄起“串連桿子” 。ㄒ环N六米至九米長的桿子,頭上有一個尖,頂上帶 個鉤)把一捆谷草勾在上面,然后從出問題最近的網(wǎng) 眼下桿子,將桿子和谷草捆對準那兒的網(wǎng)扣,手腕一 打,桿子帶著谷草捆順直往前運行,并準確地墊在網(wǎng) 下的不平處。這就叫“穿草鞋”或“拴草鞋”。查干 淖爾冬捕漁隊中有諸多的打串連“穿草鞋”的能手。 這些人一要迅速理解漁把頭的意圖;二要及時判斷網(wǎng) 在冰層下的復(fù)雜情況;三要會用腕勁。 When the net is cast from the ice eye to spread under the ice, the fishing master walks back and forth on the ice to observe the progress. If there is a delay, he knows that the net has run into a rough spot, at which point he will call out: “Put on the grass shoes!” ……
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